Fashion on Demand

One of the things I'm most excited about recently is the growing trend and offerings in, what I'm

calling (I'm sure someone else has said it too), the "Fashion on Demand" sector.

These are brands, some new and some established, that are using sources like Kickstarter, Ebay and their own sites, to create limited runs of their products, test the market and still bring a designer-level item to the marketplace.

This is, in my mind, a backlash to a few industry trends. Fast fashion is getting backlash and can never match the quality of the designer items they are ripping off, while at the same time they are poaching and cheapening the brands' creativity consumers really want. Mid- to Upper-range brands (BR, Jcrew and Gap, etc.) are either reducing their number of stores and/or cheaping the product quality while still upping their prices in an obvious bid for market share, all the while alienating the customers that made them popular by ignoring their desires. And even designer labels have extended their product lines too far (like Michael Kors) or cheapened their production.  Really no level is safe.

But we've been looking for our fashion savior in the wrong place. Until brands like Jcrew go back to their old quality and make fewer $700 sequin skirts and more interesting yet accessible items (seriously, show Anthropologie dresses be as much or more than what I see at Bergdorfs?), I'm looking for great items on Kickstarter.

Lately I've backed two items.  They are/were made in Europe (Ireland and Scotland). The details and manufacturing are thoughtful and high quality and, while not cheap, the are worth the money I feel I invested to bring their brands to the next level.

The first was a raincoat made in Ireland - Ember & Earth

This coat is amazing. It's warm and protective and every detail was thought out to bring the coat to the next level. While not 100% customizable, I was able to get the version, color and size I wanted while helping their team grow. I can see this coat being the new benchmark for Irish gear. I plan on bringing it with me on an upcoming trip to the UK because I know it will keep me warm and dry no matter what weather I encounter.

I'm even more excited about Strathberry of Scotland.  This somewhat established, up-and-coming brand came to Kickstarter for expansion and their offering is going gangbusters.

I was so excited by their video and reviews that I am getting two - the Midi and the Nano.

The making of a Strathberry MC Tote from Strathberry on Vimeo.

Midi Tote -

MC Nano - 

I think this will be huge for them, especially if their quality is as good as shown because while people like the labels or the "names" - the savvy, luxury consumer generally cares less for conspicuous branding. And while price may be less of a barrier, the demand for quality is not.

I've been surprised and disappointed lately with some of the high end brands.  It's almost like they are trying to see just how much they can get away with before some of their markets start shifting. I love the designs but if they are made more cheaply while doubling their price (something I've seen over the last 8 years), I'm going to look elsewhere.

And luckily, there are lots of places to look.

IFB Links a la Mode - January 28, 2010

A Touch of Frivolity

Edited by Retro Chick

It’s been a long time since pay day and this weeks Links à la Mode brings a touch of much needed frivolity as we crawl into the second month of a new decade. Idiosyncratic Style takes Scooby Doo’s Velma as her style inspiration, Dirty Hems is inspired by dolls houses and Ode to Awe shows off her leopard print nails. Want something for nothing? A few Goody Gumdrops has an Aspinall of London bag to giveaway and Retro Chick (that’s me!) has 2 Valentine goodie bags to giveaway worth over £100 each. We’ve also got some great designer interviews and some practical advice.

On a more sober note there’s some timely tips from Sway, Sway, Sway! on how you can continue to donate to Haiti without getting scammed, Shoe Daydreams discusses Tanya Golds “Why I hate Fashion” article and Ventures of Jenn shares her opinions on the body image debate.

Bring on February!

Note from Editor : Please be sure to check out the IFB Conference at NYFW : Evolving Influence

Links à la Mode: January 28th

• 39th and broadway – 5 Questions To Ask Before Beginning a Career in Fashion


• A Few Goody GumDrops – A Few Goody Gumdrops and Aspinal of London are Giving away an ever-so chic and sophisticated beige patterned skin clutch!


• Analogue Chic – Looking good while doing stuff – braving the weather and the commute with a sense of style.


• Bonne Vie – Invest in Quality Denim; featuring How-To Tips from Denim Debutante


• Cafe Fashionista – Style Secrets: Cowboy Boots Made Classy


• Cindy Whitehead – The Modern Snow Bunny


• Denim Debutante – Aeropostale Gives Back with Teens for Jeans Campaign


• dirty hems. – In the Dollhouse – Miniature inspiration and a teeny resulting DIY


• Dramatis Personae – a feature & interview with the designer behind i am dorkas


• Fasshonaburu – I challenge myself to follow my own dress code regulations in order to wow up my day to day ensembles.


• fête à fête – Clarins debuts first certified organic beauty soap


• Idiosyncratic Style – Inspired by the sartorially underrated Velma Dinkley.


• Independent Fashion Bloggers – IFB Presents : Evolving Influence Conference NYFW 2010


• kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS – Interview with Janeane Marie Ceccanti


• Ode to Awe – I review Minx Nails, plus my glamourous Russian Garnet cocktail ring


• Oranges and Apples – Vintage teenage hair inspiration


• Retro Chick – Valentines Day is on it’s way and Retro Chick has 2 goodie bags worth over £100 each to give away to help you celebrate!


• Shoe Daydreams – Fashion Influences (?)


• Style Eyes Fashion Blog – I have avoided eco and ethical fashion in the past because of the price but I have just discovered it is affordable and stylish.


• Style Symmetry – How to Choose Items at a Clothing Swap Party


• Sway Sway Away! – A passionate plea from a member of the global community to her fashionable brothers and sister: help Haiti!


• THE COVETED – Suzy Menkes, Facehunter, LeMads & The Coveted talk about fashion blogs


• ventures of jenn – on body issues

Financing Fashion

After reading an article today about France creating loan and other support programs for major fashion houses, I was bit, well, not quite appalled but certainly not wholly supportive.



After reading Deluxe and from my own professional background, I would say some of the troubles boil down to:

1. Higher prices and cheaper manufacturing are not a guarantee for profits

2. Many of these brands have over extended themselves through stores, hotels etc.

3. They've diluted their brands by licensing too much and extending their product lines too much

4. Deceiving your customers is not a great way to build brand loyalty

What do I mean by #1 and #4?

Well, what I am seeing and have read is that many of these brands are taking their manufacturing overseas and having it made cheaply with a few finishing touches added on in France and Italy to keep the "Made in" label. I've bought shoes from high-end lines and on the first wear the insole is coming up and squishing down. Not the experience I'm looking for.

Also, I've been surprised how much prices have gone up in just a few years. Yes, prices will rise but almost double? And when combined with poorer quality goods it really makes people reconsider if they should spend the money.

As design gets better in places like TopShop, Target and Payless and designer labeled products become less well made, these houses are going to suffer more. The main thing these companies have to differentiate themselves is heritage, creativity and quality. If they can't maintain the latter two and if they betray the former, they are going to lose their customers and their businesses.

The industry has changed, and not necessarily for the better.

Bravo!

I haven't been a huge passionate fan of Daphne Guinness but I think I'm a little bit in love right now. She does have a fearless style, and the body and money to pull them off of course, but I love love love her attitude as reported here by Vogue -

As the modern fashion industry becomes increasingly globalised, style maven Daphne Guinness, writing in the Financial Times, is celebrating a return to individuality.

"Between couture fashion and street fashion, there is a certain continuity. It's great to go to London's Camden Market or downtown New York and see what the kids are wearing," she says. "Today, you don't even have to travel to do this; all you have to do is look at fashion blogs."

"On one site you might see a hipster in Williamsburg, New York, for example, in very tight, very shrunken jackets and trousers, and then you jump to another and see a different type of person wearing an oversized shirt, belted with silver tights. It's like a bunch of ad-hoc experiments going on all the time."

With the media focusing increasingly on which celebrities are wearing which labels - or, indeed, collaborating with them - seeking out individuals with style is more refreshing than ever before, Guinness adds.

"Celebrities almost never look good unless they are 'out' at something or other, while real fashion animals always look a little interesting, even if they are only going to Starbucks. Individuality will always exist," she asserts. "It's more that it has become very underground and doesn't infiltrate the mainstream as much as it should, so you have to search it out, which is getting more difficult, but also more rewarding."

"It's exciting to see people inhabit their look, wearing clothes from morning to night. Fashion at its most interesting and purposeful, whether it's the most expensive clothes being made or the least expensive, is not about showing off - it's about creation."

Now, if only the mainstream fashion industry would see and respect the role that individuals and blogs can really play. I think it's getting there but there is still a bias. But I feel that this is changing. I know that I'm inspired far more by how people are getting dressed and having fun with it every day rather than a whole bunch of celebrities and stylists.

What Compels You?

If you haven't visited the Independent Fashion Bloggers site, you should definitely check it out and add it your list of bookmarks. The group and site is moderated by Jennine from The Coveted and she does a great job bringing together diverse voices throughout the fashion blogging world.



I wrote an article for the group which she has posted today. I'd love to hear what you think, either here or on the IFB site.

And make sure to read some of the other posts. There's some great reading there!