GoodBye Folk Custom Shoes

I love making a new discovery on Etsy.  It's like stumbling upon a neat little shop on a quaint cobblestone street in a new town.

Unique. Wondrous. New.  The opposite of the mega-chain store where everyone in the country can buy all the same thing at the same time.

Today I found a little shop - GoodBye Folk - that makes custom shoes out of Mexico City.

And how fun are they?!?!  Here are a few of my favorites....

I especially love the modern spin on the two-tone lace-ups in beautiful cream and aubergine.

Prices are reasonable for custom work - $200-$300 dollars.  They're already in my favorites, I can't wait to get a pair in my closet!

Ready for Ready-To-Wear

My favorite shoe designer, Miss Henrietta "Hetty Rose" is bringing her custom-crafted bespoke shoes to a wider audience by launching her ready-to-wear line.

Hetty has made a name for herself by creating beautiful designs and pairing them with unique vintage kimono fabrics sourced from Japan and antique jewels and embellishments.

I have been lucky enough to purchase several of her pieces - the Ella mary jane, the Love platforms and the Amalie pump - all crafted with the most amazing fabrics ever.

And while Hetty is continuing to create and craft her bespoke lines, she has not created ready-to-wear shoes that have the same adorable style and gorgeous fabrics.   The line is made up of 5 of the top favorite styles and they are all still made using vintage kimono fabrics.  They are manufactured in a small family-run factory in London and will be available in UK sizes 4, 5, 6 and 7 with prices starting from £180.

Yuki 

Haruka 

Mika 

Kiki

You can see all of the styles and detailed images here.

Pre-ordering is starting now for deliveries in October/November so make sure to drop her an email to get the process going and reserve your pair today!

Twenty Questions with Hetty Rose

As we all know, I'm a big fan of Miss Henrietta Rose, a.k.a. Hetty Rose. I thought it would be cool to learn more about her and how she got into designing and what her influences are.


Miss Hetty took the time to sit down with me and answer a whole bunch of my questions

1. When did you first get into fashion and shoes?
My first memory of shoes having an impact on me was my first day at nursery school. My mother asked what my teacher was like and I proceeded to tell her all about her red shiny shoes. My obsession isn’t just how shoes look, I am very interested in how shoes are constructed too. I make clothes and have done since I was little and I enjoy sourcing vintage fabrics and trimmings from different countries when I travel.

2. What path has your life/schooling/career taken to get you to this point? For example, when did you decide this was what you wanted to go to school for, what schools did you consider/apply to, what internships, jobs and mentoring did you have? When did you decide to go into business for yourself and start your own line?
Prior to my footwear degree, I spent my art foundation year, after high school, de-constructing shoes and experimenting. I then I studied at the London College of Fashion and gained a degree in Footwear Design & Development (also known as Cordwainers College). During my time at university, I also gained an industrial placement for one year of study with footwear designer Georgina Goodman. At every stage of my learning I was/am very focused about what I want and my direction in development.

Since graduating I have worked in both London and Italy for handmade shoe companies before setting up the Hetty Rose company just over a year ago. I wanted my name in the shoe and took a risk by starting up something new, but I knew I had something unique and wanted to share it with people who would appreciate and enjoy the shoes.

3. How did you decide to work with vintage kimono fabric?
The concept of the company has grown from research and development I conducted during my degree. I was traveling in Japan 4 years ago and came across some tiny shops selling vintage kimono fabrics. These fabrics have already been un-picked and are panels, which lend themselves to shoe patterns. Therefore, I left my clothes in Japan and filled up my case with kimono fabrics and started to experiment with them in my workshop. I love it when I find a really beautiful piece of fabric. As the fabrics are one-offs they cannot be re-produced, so when I find something gorgeous, I have to do it justice by making it into something really wonderful. I go back each year to source more fabrics and be inspired by the beauty of the country.
4. Describe the process of creating one of your pairs of shoes? With inspiration comes design. I have the last form made in the last factory left in the UK and also the heels by craftspeople. I then make the patterns and cut the fabric and leather. I’ll then stitch them and mould them around the last by nailing it in position underneath. After the upper is lasted I’ll add the sole and attach the heel and finish of by putting the padding and cover inside the shoe. The entire process can take up to 6 weeks as there is lots of drying and molding required. In just hours it takes around 2-3 days per pair to make from scratch.

5. Do you have a team that helps you?
I have 2 press agents in the UK and Italy, an Japanese agent and 2 assistants who help in the workshop a couple days a week. When I am really busy I sometimes rope in sisters, boyfriend and friends to help with little jobs!

6. What influences your designs?
Objects, places, colours and dreamt-up ideas influence me more than looks or trends. I can pick up fashion developments and movements and translate these where appropriate.

7. What are your inspirations?
I am a self-confessed hoarder. I keep everything that inspires me or that could be useful. The idea of wasting something which could be transformed into something functional and beautiful is the reason I do what I do. Sustainability in the fashion field can be a challenge, so by having a concept which adheres to ethical and ecological sensitivities, I can be free with my designs.

My magpie tendencies often lead me to be inspired by trinkets and found objects.

8. What have been your biggest successes?
Being selected to show at London Fashion Week in my first season was great, also commissions from exhibition are always exciting. I enjoy traveling for my job and most of all I feel great satisfaction by having happy, lovely clients.

9. What have been your biggest roadblocks?
Financial constraints can be a challenge to juggle for a small business. Sourcing components in the UK can also be hard work. I have build relationships with small crafts people who can create to my specifications. Working everyday can be tiring, but I love my job and feel so lucky to be able to be creative everyday.

10. Can you name some of your favorite (and or famous) clients?
From Poochie: All clients are kept anonymous. Press coverage can be seen on Hetty's site
11. What is your favorite part of your job?
My clients are so delightful, I love meeting people who like to be unique and individual in their fashion style. It is so great to hand make something totally exclusive to them.

12. What goals and milestones have you set for yourself? What are you looking forward to and planning over the next few years?I plan to steadily build up my business and profile. Through ongoing research of the market and materials, I aim to develop the brand, be reliable and build credibility through providing a quality product, excellent service with definitive branding. By creating an experience for customers, I aim to gain loyal customers and buyers.

I aim to design the Hetty Rose trans-seasonal collections with the ethos of making a collection which has typical signature style to be recognisable as Hetty Rose brand. This will enable customers to grow alongside the company and be loyal and enjoy each collection.

I like to collaborate with other designer/makers to create something really unique, and I would like to carry on doing this within many varied disciplines.

I would like to expand to a shop in the UK and then abroad in Europe, US and Japan.
I also enjoy explaining and demonstrating my practice to others and would love to carry out educational workshops.

13. What have been some of your most interesting or unusual special requests?
I have made shoes out of different fabric for the same pair for a client’s wedding. The result was really beautiful and striking. Some clients like matching accessories; purses, bags, belts, hair bows and baby shoes!

I am currently working on a project with a stylist for an exhibition which will travel in the UK, New York and Tokyo. It will involve hand weaving a shoe in vivid bright colours.

14. Who are your favorite designers?
Roger Vivier was a pioneer in footwear. I have a lot of respect for designers who do things you wouldn’t expect and play with materials in a creative way. Also, Nicholas Kirkwood, Gil Carvalho and Georgina Goodman have amazing vision.

15. Do you wear shoes by any other designers? If so, who?I wear mostly vintage designers or my own shoes. I have a few pairs of Georgina Goodman shoes, Hermes, some high street brands and often wear real ballet shoes which I customize.

16. What are your favorite books and magazines?
I rarely get time to read books. When I have time I flick through Vogue, Dazed, I.D and Japanese Street Style magazine. I tend to buy a lot of foreign magazines when I am traveling, Italy do an entire Vogue magazine decided to shoes, its wonderful (Vogue Pelle).

17. What are your favorite musicians and songs?
My tastes are very eclectic, I like anything from Kings of Leon, to Justice, Hot Chip and Nina Simone. I love abit of 90s dance when I am working late in the studio to keep me awake!

18. What’s your favorite color?
A real coral pink.

19. If you could be anyone in history, who would you be?
I wouldn’t be able to choose between Charles Rennie Macintosh, Christian Dior and Henry Moore. (Funny that they are all men!!)

20. What is your favorite city?Nagoya, Japan.


Thanks, Henrietta!

Back to Bespoke

Vintage Kimono Fabric from Hetty Rose

Almost a year ago I told you about my experience having a pair of bespoke Amalie heels made for me by the incomparable Henrietta of Hetty Rose.

At that time Hetty had done her first Kimono collection featuring twelve styles that could be custom made to your specifications from a selection of vintage kimono fabrics. Now Hetty is back with a second collection which has all new designs and includes adorable clutches as well. She's also received a ton of press coverage as well. Be warned, this post is very image heavy!

What I love about the whole process is getting to interact with the creator on a personal level. When I got back in touch with Henrietta she was on a buying trip in Japan, searching out new fabrics. She was also in country for the cherry blossom festival and sent me some surreally beautiful shots from there.

One of the first shoes in the new collection which caught my eye was the adorable Ella mary jane. It's just super cute and has a great chunky heel with front stitching down the toe. If you go to the press page you can see if has already been featured in several magazines.



Well I had to have it. As was done the previous time, Henrietta sent me a variety of fabrics to choose from and I decided on this very intricate and metallic phoenix pattern.













I like the way each shoe is individual. And, of course, the riot of colors!











They are just so cute on that I can't get over them!

As I was reading through all of the new press coverage Hetty Rose had received I came upon these articles: one, two, three. It seems Henrietta paired with theatrical wig designer Yuki Saito to create a special display for Valentine's Day and created these amazing "Love" shoes for the pairing.



Well, I fell for them. Hard. I especially love the platform element. And although they were not a part of her regular line, she agreed to make them for me.



I was lucky enough that Henrietta still had some of the same fabric that she used to create the original pair. I did make one change to the design. Knowing that I'm not going to get many opportunities to wear these with the ties wrapped up above my knee, I asked for them to be just long enough to tie around my ankle.







Oh, yes, they are super tall, but given the platform and that they are made to measure, they are very easy to wear.







I like the heart-shaped peep-toes too!





What's also cool is that the straps are not attached to the shoes. So I can wear these with and with out the leather ties. The beaded hearts just clip on, so I can adjust where they go, either on the shoes or on the ties.



A-dor-a-ble!









I know I've said this before, but she does amazing work. If you have the opportunity, drop Henrietta an email and work with her on a pair of shoes. She is a true artist. Not only will you be supporting her art, but you will be avoiding the the huge manufacturing machine and preserving a small piece of history.

Ensemble du Jour

Well, I was looking at my outfits from yesterday and today and they look really boring. They were not as blah as this, I swear. But sometimes I find Polyvore extremely limiting. Why don't they have my entire wardrobe on there! Geez!

Anyway, in spite of the overwhelming blah-ness, here's what we had.

The Outfit
Yesterday I wore my grey denim skirt with a charcoal grey sweater. What my sweater had though, was a bright green band around the neckline and green cuffs that went up about a quarter of the way up the arm. I think this is actually a Target Go International sweater, but for the life of me I can't remember which one.



I was going to pair the outfit with some black and white rugby socks but they were too bulky so I just ended up wearing my Target patent mary janes.



The Focal Point
I did liven up the neckline with my Paraphernalia Fauna Chicken Claw necklace.



Yeah, it's pretty much this big. Given the fact that we have chickens, I find this hilarious.



Is today much better. Not really. I'm too chilly to be innovative. But I am warm and comfortable.

The Outfit
Denim skirt. Red Cable knit sweater (cozy) and my Hetty Rose bespoke heels.



As jewelry, I'm wearing my new Ananda Khalsa necklace from Asheville. Can you see the pretty birdy? I think it has a delicate Asian feel to it, so it makes sense with my shoes.



The Focal Point
I haven't worn my Hetty Rose heels nearly enough, so the red was just an excuse to play them up. I think I may have to drop her an email to see if she has any new fabric in stock. I might need another pair, I love them so much.



So not too bland, right?

Beauteous Bespoke

Bespoke is defined as:

- adjective
British.
a. (of clothes) made to individual order; custom-made

One of the great things about the Internet is the ability to connect with new up-and-coming designers from around the world and to be able to purchase items that are unique with amazing craftsmanship. You can collaborate with these designers and have items halfway around the world created to your specifications and then shipped directly to you.

One designer that I was completely taken with is Hetty Rose shoes. She has beautiful and interesting designs, but what sets her apart is that she creates them using vintage kimono fabric. I fell in love with the Amalie style. It really shows off the design of the fabric. What I also like is that both shoes will be different based on how the fabric drapes on the shoe.



After speaking with Henrietta about the shoe I wanted, she sent me a list of measurements needed. So we traced my feet, took some pictures, filled in the dimensions and sent them off to her to match up with a last in my size.


Henrietta had just gone to Japan on a fabric buying trip and provided me of pictures of 5 or so fabric options to choose from. I have to tell you - it was difficult to decide. The designs were beautiful - so full of color and interest. I debated a while between a two of the fabrics but in the end I chose this pattern.



The colors were very vibrant and I liked how the white background would make them pop!

Then it was time to pick my heel. I had four options to decide between: a skinnier heel, a more curvy chunky heel, the wood heel below or the wood heel covered in fabric as it was shown on the website. Because I wanted to showcase as much of the fabric as possible, I picked the wood heel covered in the fabric.



Henrietta sent me updates about how my shoes were progressing and event sent me photos of the work in progress. Here is my fabric on the last and cut out ready to be assembled. We did have one running change when she found a small smudge on the toe fabric of one shoe. It was easily solved by adding a signature Hetty Rose peep-toe. You can see the proposed placement in the top image.





A few weeks and they are done! Henrietta sent me pictures of my finished beauties before carefully wrapping them up and winging them away to America! Didn't they turn out great!



I love the mix of black, yellow, pink, salmon and red.



The leather inside is very very soft and the hand-stitching around the peep-toe and the edges is a playful touch. One of my favorite parts is that the sole of the shoe says "Hand Made with Love by Hetty Rose".

They are so eye-catching. I got tons of compliments and inquiries about them.

Prices vary by style and fabric, etc., but they well within the range of other non-custom designer shoes. I would highly recommend her. Plus, how often do you get to say that you have the only pair in the world of these shoes.